The Curse of Time
In most fairytales, there’s a dragon. In Chunky’s case, it’s her age.
It’s rare to find an older bike where the previous owner genuinely tried to keep it like new. Usually, they keep it looking decent, do the bare minimum for maintenance, and fix things only when they break. Preventative replacements? Almost never.
Suspension? Rarely new. At best, maybe a rebuilt shock. Spring upgrades? Not even discussed, the mindset is, “these things never break.” And with the Telelever front end, many believe it doesn’t need replacement at all. Wrong assumptions about what the fork does or doesn’t do.
Wiring and hoses? That’s usually chaos. “If it hasn’t failed, don’t touch it” even if the wiring harness is already falling apart.
Buying an older bike, you know you’re in for a rebuild. How deep that goes depends on how much trust you want to feel when riding. Often, the cost ends up higher than the purchase price. And since you’ll never get that money back, most people just give up: “not worth it.”
What It’s Been Like Together
That’s kind of how things are between me and Chunky, torn between what I should do, what I want to do, and the way I’ve imagined her in my head.
After every major change, I take her out for a ride. This time, I replaced the front shock, rebuilt the rear, synced the throttle bodies, adjusted them, and swapped in injectors from a 1200.
The improvement in handling is clear even though I haven’t nailed the settings yet. The damping works much better you can feel the wheels connected to the road.
First Stop: Psatha
The route was familiar old national road toward Thiva, then through Agia Sotira to Psatha. I stopped now and then for pictures or just to take in the view.
I’m happy with the new front shock. The rear is better than before, but the difference between the two is obvious. Chunky rides well, perfect for flowing country roads. She doesn’t like sudden gear changes, luckily she’s got torque so you don’t have to shift often.
After about 3,000 km together, her main drawback is still her weight. You feel it every time you stop.
A Surprise Dirt Road
Just before Psatha, I pulled over at a clearing. I spotted a dirt road disappearing into the distance. Didn’t take long to decide I had to check it out, and see how Chunky handles off-road.
With the fresh suspension, I felt secure. But if she starts to tip, you’ll need strength and sweat to get her upright again. Her balance is excellent, and at low speeds she tackles obstacles with ease. While you’re riding, you don’t feel her weight. It’s only when you put a foot down that you remember why you called her “Chunky.”
The road sloped downhill, and the rain had carved it up. Washout after washout but she held her ground like a lady. Her “high heels” (the dual-purpose tires) handled it well, even though they’re not full off-road.
I thought the road would lead to a quiet beach—instead, it popped out onto the paved road to Porto Germeno. So I turned around and took the same dirt path back. Thanks to the short first gear and strong torque, climbing back up was a breeze, no clutch slipping needed.
A Breather at Psatha, Twists Toward Schinos
We chilled on Psatha beach for a breather, then continued toward Schinos through Alepochori. The road there is twisty with good asphalt, a great setup for Chunky to show her other side. She’s a joy in tight corners. She’s got the handling but no growl to stir your soul, another one of her weak points, maybe.
Stop at Pisia – and a Small Climb
Just before Pisia, we saw a slightly muddy incline. We stopped. I looked her in the eye, well in her one and only eye (headlight) and asked her, “What do you think?” She answered, “Let’s go.”
Second gear, and we climbed it like it was nothing. I’d planned to go up and come right back down, but the trail looked too interesting. A little further, then a little more, chasing the perfect photo spot… and eventually, we popped out onto the tarmac just before Perachora.
Heraion – Melagavi – and the Way Back
We kept going toward Lake Vouliagmeni, then visited the Heraion archaeological site and the Melagavi lighthouse. I left Chunky parked and walked the site. I’d have never visited it before, totally worth it.
She waited patiently. The ride to Loutraki was beautiful. We found a good rhythm, stopping only for a few photos.
The Verdict
The BMW R850GS reveals its strengths on the open road. It keeps a steady pace without demanding much from the rider. It still has plenty to offer despite its age. As long as you give it the care it needs.
And that’s when the questions start creeping in: Is it worth pouring more money into her, or is it time to let go? Is she a bottomless pit, or a worthy partner, one who gives back as much as you give?
Τα ταξίδια μου / My travels 