It’s often hard to stay objective—especially when emotion, logic, and personal experience get tangled up. And when it comes to motorcycles, things get even messier.
There was nothing logical about buying the BMW R850GS (which, due to its weight, I’ll refer to as “Chunky”). There was no real need, no practical reason. Just a deep, long-standing desire to own one—without even knowing what it could offer me.
Until 2019, before a trip to Turkey, I had my mind set on the BMW R80GS. But its weak brakes and high price held me back. Around that time, the Moto Guzzi V85TT appeared, which I saw as a modern-day R80GS, but its cost was just too much. That’s when the R850GS caught my eye.
The years went by with a few failed attempts to get one—until, out of the blue, I came across a slightly used Moto Guzzi V85TT. I bought it, rode it a lot, and quickly realized that despite its charm, the Italians had rushed it to market without ironing out the model’s issues.
The Guzzi went, but the desire for the BMW stayed. After some nudging from friends and a few sleepless nights of internal debate, I made the decision. I found an R850GS in decent shape, and after an intense negotiation with my beloved wife aka the “Minister of Finance” (who initially reacted strongly), the deal was finally approved—somewhere between strike threats and the declaration, “I’m not washing another dish unless there’s hot water!”
First Impressions & Riding
Chunky’s first big ride was a trip to Thessaloniki to get a set of Motoz Tractionator GPS tires—and to see how she handles on the highway (and meet up with a few buddies).
The highway ride instantly highlighted her strengths: effortless on long hauls, rock-solid at high speeds, and largely unaffected by crosswinds. At 150 km/h she cruises without a fuss, and a small visor added above the stock windscreen made a noticeable difference in wind protection.
She gives you the feel of a bike with a long wheelbase but with the agility of a shorter one—and with a handlebar that turns a lot. That takes some getting used to, along with the vague feedback from the front wheel.
The second ride took us through country roads and a bit of off-road to see how she handles outside the highway. The route included the old national road, passes through Loutra Oraias Elenis, Athikia, Agionori, Ligourio, Kranidi, and Ermioni, then on through Lemonodasos, Galatas, Epidaurus and back—with junior tagging along until we reached Kineta. The roads were twisty, the scenery beautiful, and Chunky seemed to enjoy every single curve. Her suspension, though tired, did its best to keep up.
The trip began with a hearty breakfast—Chunky filled up on regular gas. A few hours later, I found myself on a bench near a souvlaki joint at the port of Koilada, enjoying my meal with a view of the boats. I could feel her one big square headlight staring at me—as if to say, “Seriously? Not even a bite for me?” But let’s be honest, she was still digesting her own breakfast.
The Motoz Tractionator GPS tires performed great on the road, with solid grip and confidence through turns. On loose gravel they didn’t seem bothered, and they handled early morning moisture well—considering their design.
Technical Notes & Issues
On the way back from Thessaloniki, we hit the first “bug.” It was December, temperatures were in the single digits, and suddenly there was a loud hum—like the sound of tires on rough pavement. Turned out the speedo cable needed lubrication where it connects to the gauge—a common issue in cold weather, as we later read.
On the second ride, a new problem showed up: an annoying rattle that got worse on bumpy roads. When George took her for a spin, he realized the noise disappeared if you were standing on the pegs—not sitting on the seat. A bit of lube on the subframe bolts fixed it for now, but it’ll need monitoring.
She might be a bit of a diva, but Chunky is also sensitive. She needs her lube—otherwise she creaks and complains like a neglected lover.
Weaknesses I’ve Noticed So Far
Fuel tank capacity: Even though it’s a 24-liter tank, only about 20 are usable because there’s no communication between the tank’s two sides. There are some DIY fixes to access another 3 liters, but if that’s still not enough, the 30-liter tank from the R1150GS Adventure is the only real solution.
Lighting: Her cyclopean look isn’t just an aesthetic issue—it’s a functional one too. The single square headlight barely lights the road at night, making nighttime rides feel like a journey “toward the light”—just with the hope it’s not your last one. A wiring upgrade and a headlamp upgrade is a must.
Suspension: While stable overall, the suspension’s definitely showing its age, especially on rough roads.
Engine performance: After trying George’s R1100GS, I noticed its engine runs smoother. That either means mine isn’t running quite right, or all the hype about the smoother performance of the smaller 850 engine was just talk.
Weight: There’s no workaround here—you just have to get used to it.
Initial Comparison with the Moto Guzzi V85TT
On the highway, the R850GS is more stable and fuel-efficient (6–6.5 L/100km), while the Guzzi guzzles more (8–9 L/100km).
On country roads though, the Guzzi fights back—it’s easier to get 4 L/100km if you take it easy, and it’s noticeably lighter when stationary. That said, it has a higher center of gravity, and once moving, I’d say the R850GS actually feels lighter. Plus, Chunky gives you more confidence in the corners—and unlike the Guzzi, she doesn’t throw a tantrum when she gets hot.
Where We Stand So Far…
Even though she’s Bavarian, and might bring to mind red leather lingerie and whips, the truth is, Chunky’s nothing like that. She’s more like a cold English aristocrat—everything by the book, keeping her distance. Her engine and exhaust note don’t excite you, but they don’t wear you out on long trips either. She’s comfortable, relaxing—but we haven’t truly clicked yet. We’re not at that point where I feel she was made just for me.
She may be dressed in red, looking ready for passion and adventure, but in reality, she’s reserved and proper. Like she’s waiting for the right dance partner to finally let loose on the open road.
Maybe, with time, as I get to know her better and she adapts to my hands, things will change. Maybe the cold-hearted countess will start to melt…
To be continued…
(Next episode: the first repairs and upgrades)
